Lake Como continues to dazzle us, long after summer has passed. Just a short drive or train ride away are mini-escapes into the peace and tranquillity offered by gardens along the shores of this famous lake. Catch the autumn colours and treat yourself to a day-trip of greenery, fresh air and a slower pace outside the city.
Written by: Ché Milani
Villa Melzi Photo by Giorgia Pertusini - https://www.instagram.com/giorgiapertusini/
Conventional wisdom says that anywhere near the water is surely a place reserved for summer.
We beg to differ.
The famous lakes of Italy have their own magic, even when the temperature drops and daylight hours are significantly less.
Lake Como is a firm favourite for out-of-city jaunts for many of our MWN community members - and with good reason.
It attracts its fair share of visitors in autumn - thanks to its changing colours, less crowded streets, and its light that at just the right angle, makes the water sparkle.
Here’s where to go when the days are chilly, but the sun’s shining…our favourite go-to nature spots along the shores of Lake Como.
Bellagio - Villa Melzi
Probably one of the most well-known towns, Bellagio is known as the ‘Pearl of Lake Como’.
With its charming cobbled streets, and warm hues cast by flowers throughout the town and cheerful paintwork, it's certainly been photographed enough!
Here, you’ll find the ‘Giardini di Villa Melzi’, which comes to a different kind of life in autumn.
Bursts of red, orange and yellow of the changing leaves signal the winding down of a hot summer.
Villa Melzi photos by Matteo Carassale - https://www.instagram.com/matteocarassale/ https://www.matteocarassale.it/
Tree-lined pathways and feature plants dotted throughout the gardens provide colourful frames and backdrops for anyone who appreciates an impressive view, and naturally, is a keen photographer’s delight. Being right on the water offers that sense of city escapism and will surely guarantee you at least a couple of memorable photos.
With the wide variety of plants cared for in the gardens, even in autumn you can hope to catch the last blooms of the season (including magnolias, azaleas, and camellias), contrasted with the colours of the evergreens.
Originally built in the early 19th century for the family of Francesco Melzi d'Eril, the villa and surrounding gardens are steeped in their own history. (in case you’re curious, Melzi was an Italian politician and vice-president of the Napoleanic Italian Republic, supporter of the unification of Italy which would come to fruition after his passing).
Well-preserved and maintained, just walking along the many pathways dotted with fountains and statues, you can imagine how life was during this fascinating period of Italian history.
It’s always worthwhile to check beforehand any events or workshops taking place in autumn, and of course, check the opening hours before travelling. Guided tours are also offered.
More detailed information here.
Villa Melzi Photo by Marti - https://www.instagram.com/smartie.9/
How to get there:
By car
Milan - Bellagio: 1.5 hours Parking can be found in the vicinity of the Gardens on via Lungolario Manzoni, or in the neighbouring village of Loppia, just a short walk away.
By train
Trains leave from Centrale, Porta Garibaldi and Cadorna: 1.30 hours - 2.5 hours depending on origin and connecting modes of transport (eg. bus from Como, or ferry)
Varenna - Villa Monastero
This peaceful town houses a unique villa and its gardens. Originally a monastery for the Cistercian order during the 12th century, Villa Monastero became what it is today during the 18th century. The extensive gardens were then carefully developed around the villa and were designed to accentuate the natural beauty of the area.
The villa itself is fascinating as it showcases a mixture of architectural styles, drawing inspiration from the Neoclassical and Romantic eras. Winding your way through the villa rooms is like taking a step back in time, with historical exhibits and ornate furnishings.
Villa Monastero photos by : https://www.instagram.com/villamonastero_official/
Omer Kavala - https://www.instagram.com/kavalaomer/
In front of the water-facing villa, steps lead directly into clear, blue water and the terrace on the water’s edge is, without a doubt, the perfect place for a photo or two.
As for the garden itself, it extends for almost 2 kilometres along the lakeside. Meandering along the winding paths and observing the variety of colours makes it a scenic walk, coupled with the panoramic view of the lake and the surrounding mountains.
Wisteria, common enough in the centre of Milan, can be found here too and as the seasons change, the purple of summer and spring makes way for the golden reds of autumn.
In any Mediterranean garden, we can admire olive trees and lavender to name a few, but at this villa, there’s a touch of tropical too. Catch the lush greens and deep hues of cycads and fatsia japonica.
And, it goes without saying that sunset is a great time to visit to make those colours pop!
More detailed information here.
How to get there:
By car
Milan - Varenna: 1.5 hours Just before reaching Varenna, the small hamlet of Fiumelatte offers 3 complimentary car parks. The walk to Varenna is 30 minutes.
Free parking (white lines) is limited, but can be found. Otherwise the multipiano car park offers paid parking.
By train
Trains leave from Centrale: 1h 15mins - 2 hours depending on departure time.
Tremezzo - Villa Carlotta
This villa, named after Princess Carlotta (the daughter of the villa's owner), has a rich history, including serving as a shelter for soldiers during various conflicts. It was built in the late 17th century and continues to this day to delight visitors with its 70,000 square metres of gardens.
Autumn definitely doesn’t signal the end of colour here.
Villa Carlotta photos by official website - https://www.villacarlotta.it/
Rare species, some of which are particularly vibrant as we head into winter, add a different tone to the garden’s aesthetic.
Most often seen in these gardens are the familiar chrysanthemums (adding a splash of summer colour to an autumn palette), and asters. Fuchsia and sedum, for example, add a more tropical touch to the garden's offerings.
Striking splashes of colour in the garden come in the form of the ‘citrus tunnel’, walls of roses (which you’ll notice are still in bloom even here in the city), the collection of ancient trees that tower over strollers, and the fern valley featuring lush vegetation and running streams.
Villa Carlotta photos by official website - https://www.villacarlotta.it/
Turning our attention to the more artistic aspect of these gardens, two points of interest emerge. A group of sculptures located in the gardens, titled the ‘Four Seasons’ represent exactly that, each figure conveying the mood and characteristics of each season.
Another popular point of interest is ‘The Nymph and the Swan’. This expression of romance perfectly complements the scenic backdrop of the villa and gardens.
And naturally, what would any garden be without ornate fountains?
With views right on the water, photo opportunities won’t be in short supply.
More detailed information here.
How to get there:
By car
Milan - Tremezzo: 1hr 20mins
By train
Trains leave from Centrale, Porta Garibaldi and Cadorna: 1.5 hours - 2.5 hours depending on connecting modes of transport (eg. bus from Como).
Lenno - Villa del Balbianello
The gardens of this villa, like many of the grand estates around Lake Como, were influenced by 18th century landscaping traditions - more specifically, the focus on naturalism, coupled with a harmonious relationship between architecture and nature.
All of this contributed to what we enjoy today - a villa and its gardens with countless opportunities to enjoy its picturesque qualities, on what’s considered a privileged position of a little peninsula that struts out into the lake.
(and, of course, is now quite famous thanks to Hollywood. Think, ‘Star Wars: Episode II – Attack of the Clones’, ‘James Bond: Casino Royale’, and ‘The Other Woman’. But it was a place of interest even before this cinematic publicity. The villa was the home of many famous politicians, as well as of the author Alessandro Manzoni, who influenced the development of Italian as we know it today, as well as the course of Italian literature, with his book titled ‘The Betrothed’ - ‘I Promessi Sposi’)
Villa del Balbianello Photo by Deziro Studio - https://dezirostudio.com/links - https://www.instagram.com/dezirostudio/
The beauty of these gardens - even in autumn - is rooted in the idea behind them being an extension of the surrounding nature (quite different to the rigid grid-like landscaping designs we see all over Europe).
The clever placement of plants, trees, and statues frame the sweeping vistas surrounding the villa, and create scenic backdrops that change with the seasons, displaying all the colours we’ve come to expect with autumn.
And, like the other gardens mentioned so far, there’s life yet as we head towards winter thanks to tropical plants and the concept of ‘layering’, where plants and trees give colour all year round (another influence of 18th century landscaping!).
More detailed information here.
How to get there:
By car
Milan - Lenno: 1hr 20mins - 1h 40mins
By train
Trains leave from Centrale and Cadorna: 1.5 hours - 2 hours depending on connecting modes of transport (eg. bus from Como, or ferry).
Villa del Balbianello - https://www.instagram.com/villadelbalbianello/
Cernobbio - Il Giardino delle Valle
Ending off on a slightly different note, this garden isn’t part of a historic villa, but rather sits independently alongside one (the famous Villa d’Este).
Interestingly enough, up until the 80’s it was pretty much a dump site. But with the passion of ‘Nonna Pupa’, a local resident, the idea for this garden as a pocket of quietude in nature was born, and made a reality.
Less of a manicured garden and more of a naturalistic park with that wild forest feel, it’s full of local flora like maples, oaks, and hazelnut trees (just imagine the autumn colours!) and more exotic species like magnolias and camellias.
Winding through the garden are natural streams that gather in shallow ponds fed by mountain runoff. Wooden pathways meander through the garden, and stone benches offer a chance to rest and take it all in.
Nonna Pupa also took the liberty of adding hand-made sculptures, adding to the garden’s whimsical feel. Bonus, entrance is free.
More detailed information here.
How to get there:
By car
Milan - Cernobbio: 1hr
By train
Trains leave from Centrale and Cadorna: 1hr - 1hr 20 mins hours depending on connecting buses from Como.
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