What’s Really in Your Perfume? Your Guide to Fragrance Ingredients & Safety

milanwomennetwork
4 days ago
6 min read

When talking about perfumes and home fragrances, what do you associate with the words ‘natural’ and ‘synthetic’? Does reading a product label leave you more confused? And what exactly are allergens? Drawing on her expertise, fellow MWN member Dorottya and independent perfumer, takes us ‘behind the scent’ and answers all these questions. Let’s dive into Part I of this series…

Written by: Dorottya Novak (Independent Perfumer)

Have you ever picked up a beautiful perfume or candle and wondered — is this safe for me and my family?

It’s a valid question, especially with rising concerns about allergens, “clean beauty,” and air quality. As a professional perfumer, I often hear the same worry: “I love fragrances, but I’m worried about what’s inside them.”

Let’s start this blog series by addressing that concern — and providing clarity.

Who am I, and why am I writing this?

My name is Dorottya, and I’m a Hungarian perfumer based in Italy. I graduated in 2016 from the Grasse Institute of Perfumery in Grasse, France — one of the most prestigious schools for fragrance training. From there, I was offered a position as an in-house perfumer at a global fragrance house in Milan, where I worked for several years creating fine fragrances and home care scents for international markets.

Then last year, I decided to follow my heart and work independently. This new creative freedom allows me to focus on what I care most about: high-quality raw materials, transparency, and meaningful scent creation.

Fragrance is my lifelong passion. Since childhood, I’ve been fascinated by the emotional power of scent - how it can evoke memories, shift moods, and express identity. But perfumery is not just art - it’s science, regulation, innovation, and ethics combined.

(Fun fact: Did you know that there are more astronauts in the world than trained perfumers? 😊)

Creating a great fragrance requires:

Technical formulation knowledge
Artistic sensitivity
An understanding of the psychology of scent
Storytelling ability
And strict respect for health and safety standards

This is especially true when it comes to allergens and regulations.

What Are Fragrance Allergens & Why Do They Matter?

You might be surprised to learn that many natural essential oils contain allergens - and that doesn’t mean they’re “toxic” or “bad.” It means they must be used with knowledge, control, and precision.

What is a fragrance allergen?

In perfumery, an allergen is a component that may trigger skin sensitisation or irritation in some individuals.

This reaction is usually mild, like redness or itching, but in more sensitive people, it can cause more discomfort.

These allergens can be either, naturally occurring (from essential oils), or synthetic (created in a lab)

Examples of natural essential oils with allergenic potential:

Bergamot oil – Contains linalool, limonene, citral, furocoumarin, and is also phototoxic if not rectified
Lavender oil – Contains linalool, linalyl acetate
Rose oil – Contains geraniol, linalool
Cinnamon bark or leaf oil – Contains cinnamaldehyde, eugenol
Clove oil – High in eugenol, a strong sensitizer
Lemongrass oil – Contains citral
Coriander, rosemary, sweet orange, ylang-ylang, peppermint, and tea tree oils can also contain various regulated allergens

Types of fragrance allergens IFRA and EU regulations consider:

Skin sensitisers – May cause allergic reactions after repeated exposure (e.g., limonene, eugenol, geraniol)
Phototoxic agents – Can cause skin reactions when exposed to UV light (e.g., bergapten in bergamot or citrus oils)
CMR substances – Carcinogenic, mutagenic, or toxic to reproduction (e.g., calamus oil, tea tree oil, some older musks or nitro compounds, that are now banned)
Respiratory irritants – Less common in personal care but more relevant in home fragrance, like room sprays

‘Natural’ Doesn’t Always Mean Allergen-Free…And ‘Synthetic’ Isn’t Always Dangerous

It’s important to understand that "natural" does not mean allergen-free, and "synthetic" does not mean harmful. Many naturals contain dozens - even hundreds - of chemical constituents, including potential allergens.

Meanwhile, synthetic molecules:

Are often used to reproduce natural smells without allergens
Can reduce ecological impact (e.g., avoiding endangered plants)
Ensure consistency in scent and performance

For example:

Bergamot oil naturally contains bergapten, a phototoxic molecule. If used unmodified, it can cause skin damage in sunlight. But through rectification, we can remove this compound and still enjoy its scent - safely.

Linalool exists both in natural form (lavender, basil, coriander, rose, bergamot) and as a synthetic molecule. In both cases, it must be used in safe quantities.

That’s where IFRA comes in…

What is IFRA, and why should you care?

IFRA stands for the International Fragrance Association - the global authority that issues safety standards for fragrance use.

IFRA’s role is to evaluate scientific data and limit or ban ingredients that pose health or environmental risks.

Every perfume or scented product you use in Europe should follow:

IFRA Standards
EU Cosmetic Regulation (EC No. 1223/2009) for personal care
REACH (Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals) for all chemical substances

What about the rest of the world? A quick comparison

While IFRA Standards are widely used internationally (even voluntarily by many global brands), not every country enforces them equally.

Here’s how some key regions to compare:

United States:

The FDA oversees cosmetics, but there is no mandatory allergen labeling for fragrances. Fragrance formulas are considered trade secrets, so companies can label them simply as “fragrance” without disclosing allergens or specific ingredients. Compliance with IFRA is voluntary, not enforced by law.

Australia:

Regulations are managed by NICNAS (now AICIS). There are safety assessments, but allergen disclosure requirements are less specific than in the EU. Products may or may not follow IFRA unless they are exported to Europe.

Asia:

Regulations vary by country. Japan and South Korea have strong domestic rules, while other countries may rely on import guidelines or industry standards. Allergen labeling is generally less detailed, and safety enforcement can be inconsistent.

Why European regulations stand out

Europe mandates allergen disclosure on personal care products (26 fragrance allergens above threshold levels must be listed).
Fragrance formulas must comply with IFRA, EU Cosmetic Regulation, and REACH.
Every product undergoes a toxicological safety assessment before market release.
Home fragrance products must follow CLP Regulation for safe use and proper labeling.

In short:

products made and sold in Europe are subject to the most detailed and protective fragrance regulations in the world.

They offer a high level of consumer transparency, safety, and ingredient control - which is why many consumers (and perfumers like me) trust European-made scented products.

This means that if you’re buying:

Perfume
Body lotion
Deodorant
Candles
Reed diffusers
Room sprays

...from a reputable brand in Europe, it has already gone through a rigorous safety assessment by a certified toxicologist. The use of every raw material is checked against IFRA’s guidelines, and allergen labeling is required by law in many cases.

How to Read Fragrance Labels & What to Look For

Reading a fragrance label can be confusing. Let’s simplify it.

Personal Care Products (eg. perfume, body lotion):

You’ll often see:

“Parfum” or “Fragrance” – This refers to the overall scent formula. It may contain dozens of ingredients, but only certain allergens must be disclosed.

Allergens – If the formula contains any of the 26 regulated allergens above a certain threshold, they must be listed. These include:
- Limonene
- Linalool
- Citral
- Geraniol
- Eugenol
- Coumarin
- ...and 20 more

For example, if your body lotion lists “Linalool” at the end of the ingredients list, it means it’s present above the threshold level and must be declared.

On Home Fragrance (candles, diffusers, sprays):

These products often fall under home care or air freshener regulations, which vary slightly.

You’ll see:

“Contains” statements – e.g., “Contains Linalool, Limonene, Geraniol” — required for transparency and allergen disclosure.
CLP labeling – The Classification, Labelling and Packaging (CLP) regulation may apply. Look for warning icons if the product is flammable or may irritate skin or eyes.

If it’s sold legally in the EU, the fragrance has been formulated to comply with IFRA — meaning it is safe for intended use.

Fragrances add beauty and emotion to our lives, but understanding what’s inside them is essential - especially when it comes to allergens and safety.

Many natural ingredients can trigger reactions, and not all synthetic materials are harmful.

That’s why regulations, like those set by IFRA and the EU, play a vital role in protecting consumers. European standards are among the strictest in the world, ensuring transparency and proper labeling.

Whether you’re buying perfume, lotion, or a home scent, knowing how to read labels and trusting reputable brands can help you enjoy fragrances confidently and safely.

In my next post in this series, we’ll explore the fast-growing world of scented candles and home fragrance - what’s really inside them, what to avoid, and how to choose responsibly.

Until then, remember:

Fragrance is a beautiful, emotional tool - and in the right hands, it’s also a safe one.

As I add the finishing touches to my physical studio and website, if you’d like to connect, let’s do so on Instagram.

Join Dorottya at her MWN perfume workshop “The Power of Perfume: Memory, Emotion & the Invisible Art” on July 16th where we’ll explore how fragrances connect deeply with memory, emotion, and identity. Expect a delightful sensory experience where you’ll go home with a completely new perspective on the world of scent.

Proofread and edited by Ché Milani

Ready to dive in & join MWN? Check out our events

With 3 membership options to choose from (including free), connect with us here

Milan Women Network